Shenyang is about 3 hours west of Dandong. It's the capitol of Liaoning Province & probably the most polluted city I've been in. Last November, I spent 2 weeks here. The winter time is much worse. Clouds of black dust rise from the coal factories used to heat the apartment & office buildings throughout the city. Most of the pollution however comes from the industrial areas surrounding the city.
Shenyang is home to tons of manufacturing areas, as well as some international businesses. It's big enough to warrant an American Consulate office, much like the one in Shanghai. Unfortunately for this city, the international business also attracts international sized hassles from the local foreign affairs offices. To get a visa here requires lots of bribes & patting on the back of the local officials. That's not completely uncommon in China as a whole, but it's rather bleak here.
Thankfully I'm leaving this place in a few days, finally heading back to Shanghai & my wife, whom I haven't seen since about 3 days after our wedding, back on June 20th. We both know that's part of my job.
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Tuesday, August 8, 2006
North Korea by Candlelight
This is actually today's post, while the last one was supposed to have gone up 4 days ago. So I'm a little behind.. eh.
I'm still in Dandong & last night was one of China's Ghost festivals. All across the city, people were burning small yellow pieces of paper with chinese characters on it. Perhaps a local could enlighten us laowais about what's on the paper and a bit more about the tradition. Others were burning fake money. By about 11pm, the streets were filled with piles of burnt ash all around it.
Sabrina, one of the Chinese Teachers at Aston English here, went with me to the river bank. She was trying out a brand new camera, so again... I'm still hoping to get some of those pics to post here. North Korea was on the other side. Looking backward, Dandong was completely lit up. There was music playing at the park next to the river, with fountains throwing synchronized water everywhere. Old men & women were dancing with their flags, maybe about 50 or so as a crowd gathered to watch. Many people were playing badminton or playing with those feathery things that look like hackey-sack.
On the North Korean side... nothing. No music, no park, no dancing, nothing. Only one large light and about 4 smaller lights eminated from the city on the other side of the river. The bridge that extends across has the border between North Korea & China clearly marked. The Chinese part of the bridge is all lit up with multi-colored flashing lights. The North Korean end of the bridge is dark. It was a very surreal scene.
Sabrina mentioned to me about crossing the bridge. The guards on the other side can get right nasty. They don't see the Chinese as Chinese. They see any foreigners crossing as animals. When one has to cross over to North Korea, the guards try to humiliate them as best they can, trying to get them to act like animals before they can get their passport back. You're much safer crossing over at night though, as if you do have to act like an animal, no one can see anyways, because the city across the river shuts down all power at 8pm. The only light left comes from candlelights where younger North Koreans study Chinese, Russian or English, secretly & late at night.
I'm still in Dandong & last night was one of China's Ghost festivals. All across the city, people were burning small yellow pieces of paper with chinese characters on it. Perhaps a local could enlighten us laowais about what's on the paper and a bit more about the tradition. Others were burning fake money. By about 11pm, the streets were filled with piles of burnt ash all around it.
Sabrina, one of the Chinese Teachers at Aston English here, went with me to the river bank. She was trying out a brand new camera, so again... I'm still hoping to get some of those pics to post here. North Korea was on the other side. Looking backward, Dandong was completely lit up. There was music playing at the park next to the river, with fountains throwing synchronized water everywhere. Old men & women were dancing with their flags, maybe about 50 or so as a crowd gathered to watch. Many people were playing badminton or playing with those feathery things that look like hackey-sack.
On the North Korean side... nothing. No music, no park, no dancing, nothing. Only one large light and about 4 smaller lights eminated from the city on the other side of the river. The bridge that extends across has the border between North Korea & China clearly marked. The Chinese part of the bridge is all lit up with multi-colored flashing lights. The North Korean end of the bridge is dark. It was a very surreal scene.
Sabrina mentioned to me about crossing the bridge. The guards on the other side can get right nasty. They don't see the Chinese as Chinese. They see any foreigners crossing as animals. When one has to cross over to North Korea, the guards try to humiliate them as best they can, trying to get them to act like animals before they can get their passport back. You're much safer crossing over at night though, as if you do have to act like an animal, no one can see anyways, because the city across the river shuts down all power at 8pm. The only light left comes from candlelights where younger North Koreans study Chinese, Russian or English, secretly & late at night.
Monday, August 7, 2006
Dandong and North Korea
As my job takes me out of town quite a bit, I thought I'd share some of my experiences as I travel.
Dandong is up north in Liaoning province, right on the border of North Korea. All that's standing between me & 1/3rd the "axis of evil" is the winding Yalu River. Two bridges stretch across the border, though only one of them is actually complete. At night, you can see where the border is as only the Chinese side of the bridge is lit.
I've yet to attempt to cross the bridge, knowing all the warnings about shooting westerners on sight & such.
Dondong's local beer, also called Yalu River is okay, comparable to Suntory or most other local brews around China. There's a few expat bars in town. One right around the corner from the Aston English School is the Sunlight Bar. It's famed for having the coldest beer in Dandong, and rightfully so. Other than that, from what I've gathered so far, most foreigners here hang out at Korean bbq's & outdoor restaurants... when it doesn't rain.
It rains quite a bit here, but the weather is still mild, compared to Shanghai. Pullution levels are down, but the humidity can be a killer at times. The city itself boasts around 300,000 in the city limits, more than a million if you count the outlying areas. Right across the river is the North Korean version of Dandong, though I haven't gotten it's name yet.
Dandong is up north in Liaoning province, right on the border of North Korea. All that's standing between me & 1/3rd the "axis of evil" is the winding Yalu River. Two bridges stretch across the border, though only one of them is actually complete. At night, you can see where the border is as only the Chinese side of the bridge is lit.
I've yet to attempt to cross the bridge, knowing all the warnings about shooting westerners on sight & such.
Dondong's local beer, also called Yalu River is okay, comparable to Suntory or most other local brews around China. There's a few expat bars in town. One right around the corner from the Aston English School is the Sunlight Bar. It's famed for having the coldest beer in Dandong, and rightfully so. Other than that, from what I've gathered so far, most foreigners here hang out at Korean bbq's & outdoor restaurants... when it doesn't rain.
It rains quite a bit here, but the weather is still mild, compared to Shanghai. Pullution levels are down, but the humidity can be a killer at times. The city itself boasts around 300,000 in the city limits, more than a million if you count the outlying areas. Right across the river is the North Korean version of Dandong, though I haven't gotten it's name yet.
Sunday, August 6, 2006
On the Shores of North Korea
I finally got to North Korea yesterday... sort of. I went on one of those boat trips mentioned in the article I posted above. It was just that. Chinese gawking at the North Koreans along the beach. One thing Sinuiju has that Dandong hasn't is a good sandy beach! There must've been a few hundred kids on the beach yesterday. Close to the beach is a school where they learn about their "beloved leader". Down river a bit more were a few rusted out boats, and a couple of what I imagine is their military vessels. Every so often on the shore, you could spot one of the guards, rifle in hand. Inside the city of Sinuiju itself, the women supposedly have to wear a certain kind of outfit. White & blue striped shirt with a blue skirt, probably similar to what some of the schoolkids in China wear.
The boat tour in total lasted about 15 minutes. Back on the shore, sellers were selling North Korean money. I managed to buy 115 RMB's worth for 15 RMB. It could be fake, but as Sabrina explained to me, it could be real because no one here wants North Korean money, and the North Koreans themselves have no real use for it.
I'll try to get the pics online on Monday when I get to Shenyang.
The boat tour in total lasted about 15 minutes. Back on the shore, sellers were selling North Korean money. I managed to buy 115 RMB's worth for 15 RMB. It could be fake, but as Sabrina explained to me, it could be real because no one here wants North Korean money, and the North Koreans themselves have no real use for it.
I'll try to get the pics online on Monday when I get to Shenyang.
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